A Little Culture – 1

by | Aug 5, 2025 | Architecture, Art, History, Outdoors, Travel | 70 comments

The Royal Palace of Caserta

Even though I first saw it in January – may have shared the cover pic on Twitter at the time, and then moved to an apartment in Caserta in February – I didn’t have a good chance to visit the Reggia di Caserta till mid-June.Ā  On the one hand it’s a little ironic because I walk in front of the building twice a day as part of my lengthy commute to/from my parking spot at my church – but it just didn’t feel as though I had the right time any earlier.Ā  I did go ahead and buy an annual pass in May – so I can go as many times as I’d like.Ā  I’ve hit it twice now (going again 17 July) – but still so far, only the gardens.Ā  I’ll do the rest of the palace sooner or later, but I just like having a lot of open space to walk around in with some great shade and breezes – even in the middle of the summer here.Ā  I’ll see more of the building in the future – heck, I still haven’t made it back to Naples proper since my orientation tour in January.Ā  Just no time or good weather for it.Ā  That should change in the next few months though.

There’s a lot of history here, but I’ll let you read up on it on your own – I’ve only looked at a few displays so far – haven’t delved too deeply myself yet.

I believe this is the lower portion of the staircase referenced from the Star Wars movies, but I haven’t gone up it yet. Still looks amazing from below.

Starting from entering the main, central entrance – there’s a remarkable sort of key-hole view that really gives an interesting perspective – almost like the terrain sloping/curving away from you (almost like what you’d expect to see in a ringworld design.

Once you get through the high, arched ceilings and cool “confines” (did get to see them using some drones to shoo away pigeons last time – pretty tough to get a ladder tall enough), you’re immediately in a wide open park. Not a lot of shade in the immediate area.

With the affordable cost of the annual pass – particularly for youngsters and seniors, you’ll see a LOT of folks just exercising in the area – jogging, biking, walking, etc. I don’t think there’s really a thruway option to any of the maintenance accesses, but there are other facilities at different parts of the grounds. Good time for a map though.

As you can see…this massive block of greenery is only a small portion of the total length of the palace grounds – even the palace itself – the largest former royal residence in the world – pales in comparison. Assuming you don’t get sidetracked the way I do, it’s about 3km in a straight line from the main palace to the upper entrance of the English Gardens (Giardino Inglese). However…since I like shade, I immediately turned left at the first major intersection and headed for the forested area (the main complex just to the left of the palace is actually an Italian Air Force training facility (following the roots of pre-WWII where the actual palace served as the Air Force Academy).

There are some nice paths here lined with the occasional pieces of statuary and occasional surprises.

The Castelluccia – a little getaway complex away from the main palace for royal layabouts

Sadly some of the water features I was hoping to see were under maintenance/renovation. Given the scale and age of this facility, it’s understandable I suppose – there’s a LOT of greenery to maintain too. And the entire area was remarkably clean throughout compared to the trash I see in other parts of the region (Southern Italy has a bit of a reputation).

A view of the Northern side of the palace from a crossing path. This is the perfect type of place to use robo-mowers.

Pressing onwards, past the Fontana Margherita (no pics this time) – we get to the first portion of the impressive aqueduct – still fully stocked (at least with carp).

I don’t have any settings adjusted on my phone camera, but I think this zoom view showing 2km compressed worked out pretty well.

It’s worth pointing out that thanks to the size of the trees, there’s a LOT of shade on the main walkway – even this late in the morning (after 10). Additionally, there’s another footpath just off the main path, that’s completely shaded over. (I assume the left side also has something similar, but I’ve never gone that way since I prefer to hit it in the morning so far).

Here thar be dolphins! (yes, this is the Dolphin Fountain)

Given the period, there are Masonic and horoscope associated elements throughout the grounds. The fountain of Ceres here does have some things noted (I don’t remember the specifics, but if you look at a close-up of the map, you’ll also see 12 stepped pools leading up).

It may look a little overgrown in parts – I know the water level was a little lower on my 2nd trip and the guys were removing spring growth from the water and cleaning things up – I can’t imagine doing all of this by hand in the 18th century – job would never end. The checkerboard pattern on the water lip is a pretty neat touch – entirely by design.

I guess I haven’t hit up too many of the individual statues yet – there are a LOT throughout the grounds – I think there may be some repetition of themes in certain areas (no labels or captions on any aside from the famous fountains really) – but at least they’ve got some good doggo representation near the top.

Finally we get to the Fountain of Diana and Actaeon at the top. The furthest up we can walk, although the aqueduct starts higher up.

Now…it is a pretty nifty view looking back down at the palace again – in keeping with the Feng Shui-esque Masonic principles, there’s supposed to be a straight line from the palace and the main entrance all the way to the center of Naples proper – a winter morning may give a better view there (compressed zoom again).

We’re not done yet though – time to check out the English Gardens as we head back South in a more roundabout manner.

Southern Italy does have a good climate for a wider variety of plants than you might otherwise expect to see in Europe. Mixed in with all the impressive plants are a few surprises. In particular…the Cryptoportico is quite unique in design – featuring a mixture of aesthetic designs of decay with actual archaeological statuary.

It’s not actually this bright…much more subdued in person.

It’s easy to miss if you’re not careful, but a chance to catch Venus bathing – from just the right angle – makes this walk something else.

So….this is a very nifty place. Didn’t know the first thing about this palace till I stepped out of the train station the first weekend in January and saw it in front of me. I definitely plan to make it a regular stop (great exercise – and a nice alternative to the gym even if I do already get lots of walking in). Highly recommended if you ever make it over here. If my folks visit, I’ll definitely bring them. There are mini-bus or golf cart tours (and bikes) for folks who aren’t up for the hike.

The restoration continues

I am hoping to get a few days in Ischia in a few months. That may give me enough material for part 2 – unless I’m feeling really lazy.

About The Author

LCDR_Fish

LCDR_Fish

LCDR Fish is a service-queer veteran. Some days they identify as a grunt and some days they identify as a squid. Just don't call them a jarhead - that's triggering! Currently on reserve status as a filthy contractor.

70 Comments

    • UnCivilServant

      To put my initial assessment in a more verbose form – this is the type of art and architecture I like to see. (Admittedly, my range is Roman – Art Deco but Rennaisance-end of the 19th century monumental architecture is my favorite band)

      • rhywun

        I used to live near this little Rococo beauty – the Mozart festival in summer was surreal.

  1. ron73440

    That’s very nice.

    A lot bigger than I would have guessed.

    • slumbrew

      Agreed, the scale is amazing.

      • ron73440

        The shots looking up and down the hill are very impressive.

  2. The Late P Brooks

    When AI takes our jobs we’ll be free to become sculptors and stonemasons and gardeners.

    • UnCivilServant

      “These roles have been reserved for automated production systems. Return to your pod, biological unit.”

    • B.P.

      Funemployment!

    • EvilSheldon

      We’ll certainly be free to do that.

      But what most of us will do is smoke pot, gobble antidepressants, and play video games.

      • rhywun

        But work is what allows me to afford to smoke pot drink vodka, gobble antidepressants, and play video games.

        I don’t see it happening if I don’t have any income šŸ˜ž

      • Nephilium

        Hey!

        Some of us will do cocktails and board games too!

      • (((Jarflax

        You will get a ration coupon prole. It may or may not be restricted as to what spirits you are permitted based on social credit score. As a glib, you probably get a pruno ration.

      • Nephilium

        (((Jarflax:

        I’m ready to introduce a line of premium pruno. Double filtered for freshness!

      • kinnath

        As a glib, you probably get a pruno ration.

        them’s fightin’ words

  3. DEG

    You took some great pictures. This looks like a good place to visit.

  4. Gender Traitor

    I believe this is the lower portion of the staircase referenced from the Star Wars movies

    There’s a reference to an Italian staircase in one of the Star Wars movies?

    • ron73440

      It was used in one of the prequels I think.

      • Ted S.

        What prequels?

      • Mad Scientist

        Ron’s just pulling your leg, Ted. There were no prequels.

      • UnCivilServant

        You haven’t heard of Knights of the Old Republic?

      • ron73440

        I know the prequels weren’t great, but compared to Disney’s crap, they were great.

        Personally, I haven’t watched any Star Wars since The Force Awakens.

        After being excited to take my kids to a new Star Wars movie, I left the theater disappointed and a little angry.

        I never gave them anymore of my money.

  5. Threedoor

    Grunt/squid/jarhead.

    And here I was thinking those were mostly synonyms.

    • UnCivilServant

      I thought they were different specialties.

    • ron73440

      Not at all.

      Grunt in the Marine Corps is an 0311 Infantryman, it might mean something else in the Navy.

      Squid is how Marines insult navy.

      Jarhead is how Navy insults Marines.

      Usually friendly insults, but not always.

      • Threedoor

        We always called the army guys in my unit that were former marines, squids.

      • LCDR_Fish

        I was army (grunt) too.

    • Nephilium

      If I recall correctly (I knew enough about myself to avoid enrolling) grunt – Army, squid – Navy, jarhead – Marine.

  6. Yusef drives a Kia

    Nice pics, pretty place

  7. JaimeRoberto (carnitas/spicy salsa)

    It’s good to be the king.

  8. Suthenboy

    Whenever I see the wonders of history like this I am reminded we dont make things like that anymore because we outlawed slavery….mostly.
    I would love to have the resources to build something like that just not at everyone else’s expense.

    • UnCivilServant

      Have you ever visited some of the buildings Carnegie built?

      We have the resources, but the modern art and architecture is disgusting rather than artistic.

      • Suthenboy

        Yes, and you are correct. Your taste in architecture and mine are the same.
        I was mostly thinking of all of the castles, pyramids, great walls etc

      • kinnath

        My home town had dual Carnegie Libraries (one of the few cities so blessed). They were small and located on the east and west side of the river that split the town pretty much in half.

        They were replaced with a soulless, mega-building next to the river and the Carnegie buildings fell into private hands.

      • UnCivilServant

        Tell me the new owners have maintained the buildings at least.

      • Nephilium

        De gustibus. I’m a big fan of form following function, and actually like quite a bit of the modern design aesthetics. As an example, I’m looking forward to catching this next time I get downtown.

      • Suthenboy

        Soulless architecture was inspired by a soulless ideology. That booger eater they have for a king in England once complained about that. Then he promptly joined the WEF.

      • kinnath

        Tell me the new owners have maintained the buildings at least.

        The building on the “good” side of town was converted to offices. I’m not sure about the building on the “bad” side.

    • R C Dean

      There was very little slavery in Western Europe (by world/historical standards) for most of its post-Roman history. I’m not counting peasants as slaves, BTW, going more off chattel slavery.

      As far as I know, slaves were not used to build any cathedrals or the like. I haven’t looked into it, though, so I could be wrong.

      • UnCivilServant

        Cathedral builds involved highly paid masons and a paid workforce that was very dedicated to their holy work.

  9. Not Adahn

    The lack of trees is disturbing. I hope you brought a parasol.

    • LCDR_Fish

      Doesn’t show up very well, but as I mentioned, there’s a lot of trees to the sides of the main building, and then a few rows of trees all the way up the long walk (hence a shaded walk is possible nearly the whole way). The pavement and water really draw the eye though.

  10. The Late P Brooks

    we dont make things like that anymore

    Stuff like that can only be built in a culture where nobody has ever said “Time is money.”

    • Suthenboy

      That is true. Some of the great cathedrals took hundreds of years to build. I saw a documentary on one that is still being constructed one. stone. at. a. time.
      Each stone commissioned and carved to fit precisely then fitted into place. It is over 200 years into it. What our highway contractors wouldn’t give to have a gig like that.

      • Dr. Fronkensteen

        Looks at road construction around Chicagoland area.

        I thought the highway contractors already had that kind of gig.

      • rhywun

        There is one in NYC that has been under construction for 100+ years but probably more due to nobody wants to pay for it anymore.

  11. Atreides

    Amazing stuff, LCDR_Fish!
    I love the sculptures around the water features.
    It’s wonderful that you’re able to witness, and truly enjoy, this incredible art and architecture.
    Thanks for sharing it with us.

    • LCDR_Fish

      Thanks. I think I could probably tweak the camera settings a bit…to make up for the small lenses – need to do research eventually.

  12. The Other Kevin

    Beautiful place, and you did a great job with the photography.

  13. Suthenboy

    I will pile on too LCDR: your photography is very good.

  14. The Late P Brooks

    Unbiased

    ā€œIt’s no mystery why the economy is struggling; blame increasing U.S. tariffs and highly restrictive immigration policy,ā€ Zandi added. ā€œThe tariffs are cutting increasingly deeply into the profits of American companies and the purchasing power of American households. Fewer immigrant workers means a smaller economy.ā€

    Bring back Bidenomics!

    • Suthenboy

      Uh…..who wants to tell him?

    • Aloysious

      Oh no. I see that I must rend my garments because… somebody … is predicting doom.

      This wouldn’t happen if Brandon had made the business cycle illegal.

    • R C Dean

      The economy is struggling? I thought GDP growth was solid and a bunch of illegals were clearing out with Americans taking over for them in the workplace. And oh, looky there – the stock market is doing well. What macro indicators* are looking like ā€œstrugglingā€?

      *for what they are worth

      • DrOtto

        Inflation was up 3% over this time last year. That’s the best they’ve got.

  15. Aloysious

    Very cool. I like this.

    Thank you, Mr. Fish.

  16. Suthenboy

    yikes. I have been looking into the state of Britain. They are in deep shit. They are going off of the rails with the totalitarianism. I think their ruling class is about to end up stretching ropes and it wont be anyone’s fault but their own.
    Under the guise of protecting kids from inappropriate content they are censoring nearly everything from everyone. Ol’ kid raper Starmer has formed an official thought police force.

    • The Other Kevin

      I’m following that too. It’s terrifying. There are people out there who won’t travel to Britain because they could get arrested for what they’ve posted online.

    • R C Dean

      The thought police seem mainly concerned with suppressing complaints about child rape.

  17. Suthenboy

    Ron is correct above. I was struck by the large size of it. I haven’t seen much of Europe but what I did see was like a fairyland. Everything was tinier than I expected.
    I was especially weirded out by North England/Scotland. That far north the light is very different and my perspective was off. I set out on a walk one day with some girls to Mt. Something Lookout. I could see it from where I was staying. When they pointed it out to me and said “Let’s walk over to that” I thought Damn, that will be an all day trip there and back. Nope. It took us about 20 mins to walk there and Mt. Something Lookout that appears so tall from a distance was about the size of the tallest hill on my family timberland. Just a bump really.

  18. UnCivilServant

    I took a peek at my Brokerage account. Only one asset is in the Red – CD Project Red šŸ™ It’s down less than it averaged before.

    The market seems to be doing well, given the rest of the green.

  19. The Late P Brooks

    Massacre

    As has been widely reported, Trump reacted to the employment numbers with an epic snit, ordering the firing of Bureau of Labor Statistics Commissioner Erika McEntarfer, whose devotion to rigorous statistical reporting is a byword in the economics profession.

    You mustn’t contradict the egghead consensus.

    • The Other Kevin

      He fired her because he was having a temper tantrum, no other reason. We all remember how accurate those job numbers were under Biden.

    • R C Dean

      Nothing says ā€œrigorous statistical reportingā€ like constant, massive post facto revisions.

      • DrOtto

        But those revisions were consistent. You could count on a downward revision every quarter.

  20. R C Dean

    I’d never even heard of it before. That’s amazing. An annual pass would be a must if you live nearby.

  21. LCDR_Fish

    Sorry about the lack of replies. This posted right before I got off work for the week (not logged in) and took me a while to get home (not logged in on phone). I’ll get to them in a few min.

    This was part of the Palace of Naboo in Episode 1.

  22. Evan from Evansville

    Your pics are fantastic. Right up my alley, and am especially pleased with the statuary.

    Venus is certainly the highlight, an amazing end to a walk. Thanks for all of this.