BALL JOINTS
I had new tires put on the No Good White Trash Ho and the shop told me the upper ball joint on the driver side was loose. They quoted me $900 so I told them I would do it myself. Went to Auto Zone to borrow a ball joint press, but someone else had it out, so I bought a kit for $150. I got upper and lower Moog Ball joints for the one side. One Saturday, I took the caliper, caliper adapter and wheel hub with the axle attached out. This is a pretty simple step. It was easy to tell the upper ball joint was bad, it could be moved with no effort
Then I took my press and using my small air impact, I popped the old ball joints out.
Not hard at all
Now came the fun part, trying to get the new one to go in straight. No matter what I tried, I could not get the thing to line up the way it should. I thought my “Master” Ball Joint kit did not have all of the required pieces. I looked at other Auto Zones and found one not too far away that had a kit available, so I quit for the day and went to borrow that one.
The next day, I opened the Auto Zone kit and compared it to mine. It looked exactly the same, so apparently it really was a master kit, I am just not a master mechanic.
I looked on YouTube and found this video that showed which tools he was using and how to set them up. OK, my kit has everything it needs to have and I was able to get them in with no more issues. I told you before, sometimes my mechanic is an idiot.
Learning has occurred
Then it was a simple matter to put the axle and hub back on, then the caliper adapter and brakes.
Almost back together
Honestly since it was my first time, I made it a lot more difficult than it needed to be and almost wish I had just paid them to do it. But I saved money, got experience and a new tool. I’m calling that a victory.
STARTER
After that everything was good for awhile and then it started not cranking sometimes when I turned the key. First time it happened, I thought maybe I didn’t have the clutch pushed in far enough, so I pushed it down all the way and it started. Next few times it started like normal and I didn’t think anymore about it. Then it randomly started having no crank issues, but it would always crank on the second attempt.
I decided I couldn’t put it off any longer after it almost stranded me an hour from home. I was on my last attempt before I gave up and called my wife when she cranked over. After asking Cummins Forum, the starter became the likely suspect. It took maybe 10 minutes to pull the starter, only 3 bolts and 1 electrical connection.
Pretty grimy
I planned on rebuilding the contacts because the stock Denso starters are supposed to be bullet proof once the contacts get replaced. Supposedly the cheaper ones don’t last as long. Once I cracked the starter open, the issue was easy to find.
That wire should be connected
It was full of grease and dirt
The brass ring was barely attached
Once I got looking, I realized that this was not a Denso and not worth the time and money to rebuild it. It did last for 10 years and 110,000 miles since I owned the truck and I have no idea how long it was on there before then.
I probably should have bought a cheaper one off of Rock Auto, but I am paranoid about things, so I bought a Denso.
Purty
Just like removal, it took about 10-15 minutes to install.
One of the easier jobs I’ve done on the old girl
I did put some liquid electric tape on the cover for the wire on the starter. I tried to be careful when I took it of, but the plastic was brittle. The new starter has more grunt and it fires up on the first half crank now, before it would crank 3/4 to a full revolution before the engine would fire.
SHOCKS
Over the last few years, the ride had been getting worse and worse. I thought the roads were getting bad on one particular stretch going to our favorite local BBQ joint until one day we drove my Saab out there and barely noticed where my truck felt like a boat riding the waves as it bounced from one bump to the next.
I figured it was time to replace the shocks. I bought a set of Bilstein 4600 shocks. Looking at YouTube it seemed pretty simple so I got started on it on the 3 day Labor day weekend. I planned on driving it on that Sunday, but I don’t think I have ever finished when I thought I would.
I made it more difficult by being lazy. I did not jack the truck up and let the suspension hang. That would have let the shocks extend a little more instead of having to compress them all the way and then fight it into position. I did the most difficult one first.
That’s a shock all the way down there.
Under the brake reservoir and hyroboost on the driver side, a shock is buried. It was hard to get the old one out because of everything in the way. As soon as I did, I compressed it, it took very little effort and re-expanded very slowly. The new ones took a lot of effort to compress and expanded rather quickly. This made installation more difficult. I would squeeze it and try to align it. It would expand and not fit where it was supposed to go. This was a definite Stoic test. I passed, but barely. Finally got it in and went to the passenger front. Much easier since once I removed the intake nothing was in the way.
Much more accessible
Still had to fight with the expansion rate. The shocks are shipped compressed with a band holding them in place. This was still too long since I “saved time and work” by not jacking the truck up.
Got it
The rears weren’t too bad but the compressing of the shocks was the main struggle.
Also Purty
Then I took her for a drive. Went straight to the section of road that was horrible and I had trouble identifying the spot. She rides a little firmer, but it doesn’t float from bump to bump anymore. I honestly didn’t realize how bouncy the old shocks were until I rode with the new ones. Well worth the time and effort.
POWERED SUBWOOFER
I have a very nice stereo system in my truck, it has a Pioneer double din with Android Auto and JBL speakers all the way around so it sounds really good. I always wished it had more bass though. I didn’t need a system that would rattle windows, just a nice bottom end. Whenever I listened to the Winery Dogs it was especially obvious what was missing. I thought the only way to fix it was a subwoofer box with a separate amp and that was more money and work than I wanted to part with. Then I saw this video and was intrigued. After looking on the Crutchfield website I decided to go with JBL. I probably would have been fine with the JBL Nano, but decided to go for the BassPro SL2. I ordered it with Crutchfield’s Amp Wiring Kit. After I watched a few YouTube videos on installation I felt it was well within my capabilities.
I disconnected the batteries before I started. Next step was to run the power wire through the firewall, but I already had an old power wire that ran under the driver side sill where the original owner must have had an amp. It was simple to tape the end of the new power wire to the beginning of the old one and pull it through. Then I attached the power cable to the power inlet of the fuse box.
Shiny new red wire
I decided to place the subwoofer under the back seat on the driver side so I knew where to run the wires. My Pioneer head unit doesn’t have RCA subwoofer outlets so I had to tap into the rear speaker wires for each side. I did this at the back of the stereo using 3 port push in connectors and speaker wire I purchased at AutoZone. That was simple, just strip the ends of left and right positive and negative wires and spliced them back onto themselves and a line for the subwoofer. Ran these under the sill plate with the power wire. There was a screw under the sill plate that held the wire loom down and I used that for the subwoofer ground. I then cut the length and spliced the speaker wires to the plug for the subwoofer. next was running the cable to the remote control and mounting the knob on the lower dash.
Since I used speaker wires, I didn’t need to send a wake up signal to the subwoofer, I just had to set it to automatically turn on when the speaker wires sent a signal.
Looks pretty good
After all that, I hooked the stereo back up and put the battery negative terminals back on. Then I hooked up my phone and put Oblivion on. It sounds AMAZING! I then lost an hour flipping through songs with a lot of bass, Dazed and Confused, Happiest Days of our Lives and quite a few Iron Maiden songs. I kept messing with the settings and think it is perfect now. It doesn’t rattle windows and it’s not annoying outside of the vehicle, but there is a depth to the sound that was missing before.Then I just had to zip tie some of the wiring behind the dash and put the sill plates back on. I used Velcro tape to keep the subwoofer in place.
Long story short, I am enjoying driving the truck more than ever. I took my son to the Martinsville NASCAR race and he was impressed with the ride quality and the stereo.
That was a good day
Honestly since it was my first time, I made it a lot more difficult than it needed to be and almost wish I had just paid them to do it. But I saved money, got experience and a new tool. I’m calling that a victory.
Now do the other side.
I will in a few months before they go bad, should be easier.
A little maintenance now and then is a whole lot cheaper than a new truck (or car).
This is very true.
However, I do so like shiny, new things.
Hmm, possible Glibs meet up at Martinsville?
I will be going again for next fall’s race in late Oct.
just a nice bottom end.
So say we all.
Well well, whaddaya know? It’s snowing.
I stepped out to do an interim shovel to make it easier for a later shovel.
I was sad that my the time I got to the end, the walkway was coated and I left footprints back to the door.
Nothing here. Sunny and high 40s. I still don’t feel like working.
Just did a touch up shovel.
When I opened the door, my previous work was invisible. However, there were only two inches of snow to clear instead of the five had I not done the first round.
It’s snowball snow, so heavy and clumpy.
Got 4-5 inches of snow. Wanted to try out the Tahoe and tires in the mess. Unfortunately I had to drive my wife’s coworker’s kid to the ER. Trial under fire.
Boy people suck at driving and don’t have good tires.
“Long story short, I am enjoying driving the truck more than ever. ”
10… 9… 8… 7…
Totally jinxed himself.
Ron better knock on some MOPAR plastic panels.
Still fine, I need to rotate the tires and change the oil soon.
Just did the rear shocks on the Tahoe. Made a big difference in highway stability. The struts are next. I would have done it at the same time, but I need to drive it to Bucks county this weekend for music and beers.
You should get the front end alignment done after a strut and spring replacement.
My modern GM stuff wears out the outside of the front tires.
It’s like they are trying to eat tires at the same rate ford did with the Twin Traction Beam front end they had in the 80s.
Say what now?
Heading to Broken Goblet Brewing on Sat.
Planet Smashers are playing (Ska from Canada)
Ah. Wrong side of the county.
Had a car stolen in Bensalem once…
Drive it. Break it. Fix it. Repeat.
Half of being a decent mechanic is just having curiosity about how things work. The other half is (foolishly) thinking, “I can fix that. How hard can it be?”
My girlfriend likes to remind of the time I said “Easy! It should take only 30 minutes.” to change brakes on her car.
.
.
.
It took 3 hours, a blow torch, a 5lb sledge hammer, and several cuss words.
I did the same thing with the alternator on my ex-wife’s Accord. Little did I realize there was no possible way to get the old alternator out without removing the left side axle. And since she was using my car that day, it meant walking a couple miles each way to the auto parts store to buy extra tools.
I hate when that happens.
I get that with welding projects.
Hey can you weld this up?
Yeah $100 an hour.
But my lawn mower isnt worth $100?
Correct.
So, drum brakes?
I have a Cummins starter in my pile I need to go through.
It’s no fun to put a starter in an 1840 skidsteer that won’t start.
When I graduated from college, I swore I would never do my own maintenance again. Drive it to the dealer; pick it up later.
My first job out of school was in Phoenix. The other new guy in the group was hired 2 weeks before me. He decided to replace the starter in his Chevy Luv micro pickup . . . . in July . . . so 110+ degrees. It took him about 8 hours.
On Monday, I explained to him that we could have worked 8 hours of OT on Saturday (we got paid OT in those days) in an air conditioned office; paid someone else to replace the starter; and then still have money left over.
When the shit hits the fan and there is no dealer for the vehicles, I will need to pay some mechanically inclined neighbor to do the work and then pay off the labor with booze.
When the time comes I’ll trade honey for your booze, trade the booze for labor. More demand for the booze.
Works for me Fourscore
I’m arguing with a shop
For the labor chasing a fault caused by a$5500 job they did this spring that had a shit part in it which caused another five months of diagnostic work.
I kept telling them. Hey it didn’t do this until you did that last job.
It’ll end up costing me more than the truck was worth.
I have done 99% of my own work. I don’t have the diagnostic equipment to talk to my international truck. They do.
They couldn’t figure out a problem they caused.
Likely going to cost me another $10k for their fuckup.
John Muir’s “How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive” didn’t originally include a procedure for replacing ball joints. It was added later because readers kept asking for it. At the end of the instructions, it says, “There, now don’t you wish you’d collected aluminum cans to pay for this job instead of doing it yourself?”
I tried to do mine, but I destroyed the tools trying to get the old ones out. I ended up buying new torsion arms with the ball joints already installed and it was still a huge pain.
Little known trivia: Volkswagen is actually German for “fuck all mechanics.”
VEE VILL MAKE YOU SUFFA!
😄 I think most of what I’ve done hasn’t been too difficult, but I know there are a lot of guys that say working on American classics is easier.
I have been pleasantly surprised at how easy it is to work on Sloopy’s BMW. But if I never wrench on a VW again it will be too soon.
The old air cooled ones are pretty simple. The newest one I’ve ever owned was an ’88 Fox, but I never did serious work on that one.
Dear Penthouse . . . It was my first time . . . . .
I still wrench on my vehicles, there’s a sense of satisfaction and accomplishment once a repair has been finished that is hard to match. Sometimes you have to convince yourself that all the frustration, cussing and busted up knuckles was worth it. Recently I needed to replace a squeaky thrust washer on the rear axle of my 17″ Mustang. It could be I’m getting older but it took me forever to break the damn axle nut loose. I thought the 24″ breaker bar I was using was going to break in two it was bending so much. The nut didn’t budge. Next I inserted a 2 foot piece of cast iron pipe over the handle to extend its length. Still the nut refused to move. I searched for a longer piece of pipe but no luck. I was about to admit defeat when I spied the handle to my floor jack…. thankfully it fit over the handle of the breaker bar. I finally had a lever long enough to break that damnable nut loose. Victory! Torque specs for that nut are supposed to be 98 ft lbs + 45 degree turn.
I mostly enjoy it.
It saves money? *don’t look at the thousands I have spent on tools*
Yeah, but you’ll never need to buy them again. I bought a vacuum system and hi/lo pressure gauges and r134a recovery machine and bottle to do an AC job. Did I need all that shit? No. Was I glad I had it when my buddy needed to replace his condenser? Hero!
I heard a guy say something that sums up my attitude pretty well: “I don’t like working on my Volkswagen, but I like having worked on it.”
Did you apply heat?
I lost count of euphemisms in that comment. Well, done, CTC!
Why do you people need to drive so many miles? you can practically walk everywhere
Why do you insist on walking when you can actually arrive at your destination?
We are far too busy to take the time to walk it.
“you can practically walk everywhere”
While that’s true I’d still have to walk back home…
Replacing ball joints is a job I’m willing to pay someone to do just for the peace of mind of knowing it was probably done right.
I just got the most aggressive tread snow tires I could find. The clerk said they would be noisy.
I told him it doesn’t matter, I can’t hear them anyway.
It’s been a long time since I worked on a car and then only for the easy things. The first cars I had were pretty simple, not much under the hod. I could stand under the hood of a ’66 Mustang 6 cyl and change the plugs. Not any more…
Thanks, government
I’m old and lazy. I only want to work in a warm well lit clean shop. Unfortunately, I don’t have one anymore. I need to do some things (like determine whether the Element needs a set of rear brake pads) and I’m having a terrible time motivating myself.
Woe is me.
I watch old Derek at Vice Grip Garage doing his “revivals” and bandaid-ing those junkers on the side of the rod, and it brings back memories. Bad, painful memories. I don’t want to ever work on a car in a parking lot again.
I like doing my own work most of the time but decided to hire out the electrical for the new heat pump plus a few other things just to get them done. First bid is a little ouch. I paid less for a complete panel replacement (15 years ago$.
Thanks, Ron, I enjoy these.
For you (and others) who do all this wrenching – did you grow up wrenching on cars or was it something you picked up later on in life?
For the little bit I’ve done, I can’t imagine what it was like before YouTube.
I helped my dad work on things when I was a kid, so I grew up enjoying it. It was years later that I learned my dad hated working on cars/houses/bicycles/lawnmowers, and did so because he couldn’t afford to pay someone else to do it.
I grew up on a farm, so I got some experience helping work on tractors and such.
As poor young husband, I just did basic stuff because we couldn’t afford a real mechanic.
Now I do it more as a hobby than a necessity, although I probably couldn’t justify paying someone to do all I have done to my truck.
I picked it up later in life. I had a real long commute and realized I’d have to take the car in every 3 months for an oil change, so I figured I should just learn to do it myself. That was the gateway car job.
I was poor and had to fix my own stuff.
Tools at Sears were many times less than paying for a mechanic.
I did none of this growing up. Dad was a bit handy but not a big DIY guy. But several of my in-laws are very good at fixing things, and when I got married I started learning from them. Now my first instinct is to try to fix something myself.
I’ve loved old VW’s since I was a toddler, but I didn’t own one and learn to work on it until I was forty (almost ten years ago). I’m pleased with how much I’ve been able to learn and do, but I wish I had started a lot sooner. When I was a kid, I had a neighbor across the street who was a VW mechanic who would have probably been glad to teach me anything. YouTube and John Muir’s book have been very helpful. Like Kevin says, now when something breaks in the house I’ll do some research and see if I can fix it myself.
I’m also fortunate to have an appliance repair shop in town that sells parts. The guy who owns it will help you diagnose problems over the phone.
I learned to do it out of necessity. I grew up in MN and swore it off at a point due to rust being a bitch on everything. Then I moved to TX and realized a 20 year old car without rust was actually a pleasure to work on, so started fixing my own stuff, which lead to me fixing other stuff and eventually became a new career for me at 35 when even dealerships were struggling to do proper diagnostic work and I had to start buying diagnostic equipment to fix my cars, and eventually, my customers cars correctly.
Just got home and the downstairs heater isn’t working.
The thermostat says HEAT ON, but the fan isn’t running.
If I turn it off, let it sit and turn it back on, the ran runs for a few seconds and stops.
If I turn it to FAN ON, the fan runs, but there is no heat.
Yay!
I’m obligated to ask if you’ve checked the thermostat.
There’s a thermocouple that shuts off the system if it doesn’t detect that the furnace is lit. This prevents things like having gas dumped into your furnace that isn’t iignited. Could be the igniter. Could be the thermocouple itself. Could be a bad valve. Could be you didn’t pay your gas bill.
Definitely paid the gas bill, but I think the downstairs one is electric.
I had a similar problem last year. I paid $200 to have a guy come out and tell me my furnace filter needed replacing! All the cat hair in the filter messed with some airflow sensor in the furnace controller. I now change the filters every month.
I change the living room filter every month, the others are in an empty room or in the second floor ceiling so I change them every 3 months.
That’s one of the things I fixed after I started learning to fix thing myself. In my case it was the igniter. I had the same symptoms, and when I opened the furnace I could see it had a crack in the element.
*checks 2002 Ram*
375,000 miles, bashed-in dash, needs weird repairs that are actually necessary
It’s only a going-to-Home-Depot-and-buying-something-off-Craigslist truck, and in the 12 years we’ve had it (It had ~360,000 miles on it when we bought it), its real value is knowing we have it to do what we need it for. No renting UHauls or Home Depot trucks. No begging friends for their trucks. No asking the Ward Elder’s Quorum Moving Company.
Also, I fucking LOVE driving it.
If it’s a diesel.
Fix it.
Gasser.
Let it ride.
Nice work, Ron. These are always jobs I hated doing, but felt much better once done.
In fact, the electrics were the only thing I enjoyed working on.
I’ve got an electrical question for the glibs that know that stuff.
I’m trying to add lights in my door panels that come on in my new worktruck.
They are a factory option, so I figured I would tap into the door switch which has 12v on one side, open the door and it completes the circuit to the dome light and the chime.
When I put my new door light on the hot side and then to ground it completes the circuit, but instead of turning on the door light it turns on the dome light and chime.
What the heck?
Is the hot lead to the door switch feeding a relay that turns on the dome light and chime? I see no relay in the wiring harness. Unless the relay is the door chime which is in the dash.
Back in the day it was the door switch that ran full voltage.
I would also like to kill the door chime but the damn thing is integrated into the dash. When I unplug the dash the dome light still comes on when you open the door.
So in my mind it can’t be the relay and without it the rest of the system works. Just not the extra lights I tried to add.
It might be the case that the door switch shorts the dome light and when the door opens the short breaks, powering the light. Without your addition, what’s the connectivity across the switch read with the door opwn?
If you have a dash that says “passenger door open” or something to that effect, the ECU is controlling the lights when it thinks the door is open.
If this was a factory option, there may be a harness inside the door that’s prewired for your lights.
I forgot about the overcomputerization of cars. I was thinking the simpler electrical solution that doesn’t require microchips.
Two wires on the door switch.
When it’s depressed it’s open.
One wire is 12v hot, the other goes to ground.
Same wire from the door switch has continuity to the wire to the dome light. Both are black with a white stripe. Which has two grounds oddly enough.
I’m a bit befuddled.
When I hit my new light off a battery it works.
When I put it in the circuit it reads 12v on either side of the bulb, when grounded the bulb does not light up. I need to check the amperage it must be very low so as to not light the bulb.
My truck dosent have the factory harness in the door, I added a weatherpac connector and 18 gauge wire through the door into the cab to jump off the switch. I may have to leave it till later.
Is it the wrong ground?
What are you grounding to?
Ok, here’s what’s happening. The 12v supply goes to the dome light and then to the door switch. All the door switch does is provide a ground. So if your panel lights also provide a ground, they’re closing the circuit and allowing electricity to flow through the dome light. What you want to do is to tap into the ground side of the switch for your 12v supply to the lights. That will only have 12v when the door is open. And since your light ground is now on the other side of the switch, there’s no continuity for the dome light until the switch is released.
Listen to Mad Scientist, that makes more sense than any crazy idea I had.
Ahhhh.
Mad Scientist.
That makes sense. I’ll give that a try.
Cut the ground side, insert my new light in that side maintaining the integrity of the factory circuit with the addition of a new light in series.
I wish I had gone to tech school rather than chasing an academic degree or two.
I’d recommend wiring it in parallel. Otherwise, if you blow a bulb in your new panel light, your dome light won’t work either. Just tap into the other side of the switch. You may still have a problem with not enough current to light up your panel, however. In that case, you’ll need to run a relay as well, but you should still be able to use that switch wire as the relay’s signal wire.
Scratch that relay stuff. You could wire this the same way the truck is wired. Bring a 12v (hopefully fused) wire into the door. Connect that to the input side on your panel light. Then connect the negative side to wire you already cut into leading to the switch. With the door closed, neither your dome nor the panel light should have a ground. With the door open, both are grounded and should light up.
Thanks a bunch. MS.
Only circuts I ever drew were in college physics class.
Door switch plug has a provision for a third plug. I can do the ground side fairly sanitarily and add that with a GM style wire end.
https://ibb.co/Y4Ryw2Tm
Ok, if I’m right about that switch just providing a ground, then the reason your lights don’t light up, but the dome light does, is the current in that wire is limited to the amount the dome light draws, which isn’t enough to make your panel lights glow. So the only way to do this is to bring a fused 12v line into the door and then use the switch as a common ground. Test before you do anything permanent!
It has no impact on the panel lights, they are controled by the headlight switch.
But I’ll double check that. It has a weird daytime running light thing that runs on the parking lights as well.
Added the new light to the ground side after the switch. No change.
It turns on the dome light but not the new light.
There must be a relay in this thing somewhere.
Boss left early, which mean I can leave early and get to firing up the snowblower.
I love the first snow panic of the season!
Have fun.
CITGO is no longer Venezuelan
tl;dr – Canadian company sued because Chavistas nationalized their gold mine, the only asset venezuela had to cover the judgement was CITGO, as the rest were outside US jurisdiction (trial was in delaware). CITGO was auctioned off and the Canaidans paid.
I wonder if Maduro will get the difference between the judgement and sale price as with forfeiture jurisprudence, or if they’ll freeze that cash until someone else is in charge a la Iranian funds in 1979.
He will just seize it again from the new owners.
And he isn’t going anywhere.
Hard to do when the refineries and gas stations are physically in the United States.
I thought it was CITGO in Venezuela. Perhaps I was wrong.
I gave a link in addition to the tl;dr…
And you expected me to read it completely? Silly UnCivil. My ADHD is too string for that.
Or strong. String/strong.
Mark 76(and anybody else)-
Are you familiar with Wicked Werks?
He hasn’t been posting much content lately, but I find him very entertaining . I think his most recent video was about building a rotisserie for his single cab pickup.
Yeah, I’ve watched him a little bit, but not regularly. I found him through Mustie1 and 5150mxVW. He has a bus that’s pretty similar to mine, and I do like his sense of humor.
“…I was on my last attempt before I gave up and called my wife when she cranked over.”
I’m enjoying these auto-autoerotic euphemisms, here.
Well this happened. Jaguar Management fired the guy behind the wretched new Jaguar.
https://www.motor1.com/news/780585/jaguar-design-boss-gerry-mcgovern-fired-type-00/
What about the managers who didn’t veto it?
No idea. Looks like they have a new CEO, formerly the finance guy at Tata. Boy, that’s just what they need. Good luck, Jaguar!
Good work, and fairly jealous, am I. I’m tremendously ignorant about doing work with my hands. I’ve got good arms but bad fingers. Good gross, poor motor. (Bein’ a Lefty doesn’t help.) Mom’s dad worked for Ford for 40+ years and was a tremendous fixer-upper. My father is far more incapable than me, embarrassingly so, but bro is far better than me, but nothing with cars. He installed a washing machine. I reckon that’s the highlight of our Clan’s abilities. I can tie my shoes, and I can double-knot *that* knot. So there.
Just got back from AutoZone myself. Got the OBD scanner and got my codes reset, so no more engine light for now. Hopefully the snow is thoroughly taken care of up north, cuz i plan to go to Michigan to get my supply sorted. I’m fairly confident it was a false alarm.
Jaguar Management fired the guy behind the wretched new Jaguar.
Tragic. Just as they were bout to rise from the ashes like a phoenix.
“I popped the old ball joints out.”
This made titanium ball joints flinch.